Portuguese Central Camino + Spiritual Variante

Start at the very beginning – it’s a very good place to start!

Start your journey towards Camino de Santiago in Porto, one of the most ancient cities in Europe.

Home to 240,000 people, Porto charms visitors with many architectural highlights, the picturesque Ribeira river front and UNESCO heritage listed colourful historic old town.

The day begins by taking the Metro light rail to Matosinhos to avoid the outskirts of Porto and reach the coast to start your walk on the Portuguese coastal path.

Today’s walking is flat and easy. You will be accompanied by many kilometres of golden sandy Atlantic beach, which will be your guide to the town of Vila do Conde.

The route along the coast from Matosinhos is well marked. Your walk will be close to the coast, on the pedestrian pavement, the cycle track and wooden walkways, passing fishing villages, chapels, monuments and beautiful popular sandy beaches.

Take time to visit the Museum of Naval Construction with a replica Portuguese carrack, the Nau Quinhentista, floating in the dock. Also, the Igreja Matriz church with the large aqueduct behind it and the Convent of Santa Clara.

Continue on your way to the old fishing village of Esposende with the Seashore Path and Coastal Way sharing much of the route.

Follow the coast passing through the villages of Agucadoura and Areia, then cross through the Coastal Natural Park (Parque Natural do Litoral Norte).

At the church in Apulia we forge ahead through the pine and eucalypt forest before Fao – what the locals have done in this forest is a beautiful Camino experience.

We walk through rural areas and small villages, reaching Sao Pedro de Rates with its romànic Iglesia de San Pedro de Rates, the church of St Peter. Classified as a national monument built in the 9th century.

We arrive at the medieval bridge at the entrance of Barcelos – a beautiful town (120,000 inhabitants) famous for its “Galo” (rooster). A symbol of the whole country.

Another day following minor roads around rural areas and cross the small villages of Tamel and Aboim in direction to the river Neiva.

A nice shorter day, which will allow us time to catch up on some washing and home.

Today starts with a walk up to Vitorino de Piaes, with its Igreja Matriz. Then heading down to the valley of the Lima River passing the beautiful Capela (Chapel) da Nossa Senhora das Neves.

Finally arriving in the oldest town in Portugal Ponte de Lima. You enter this monumental town crossing the Lima River over an updated Roman bridge. The foundations date back to 1368. The charming town centre with its cobbled streets and many interesting historic sites.

The local specialities are based on pork, bacalhau and “lamprea” (lamprey), a sort of slippery eel that has teeth without a jaw.

Today is a challenging yet very beautiful stage. With most of the day traversing through unpaved terrain.

We begin with an amazing path along the Labruja River until Codecal where you’ll start the climb to Alto da Portela Grande de Labruja (400 m). This is the highest point on this Camino. The terrain is very steep, with rocky ground and full of steps. Once you reach the top view is worth every step!

Descending down to Rubiaes a little village where the Romanic church of Sao Pedro de Rubiaes awaits your visit.

Today is the last chance to enjoy Bacalhau a Bras before crossing into Spain.

You will cross the remarkable Roman-medieval bridge at Rubiaes then wander into unpaved roads and hilly terrain.

Soon arriving in Valenca do Minho the last town in Portugal, we will stop to visit the magnificent Fortaleza (fortress) a splendid medieval wall surrounding the old city.

From here we cross the International bridge that links Portugal and Spain. Over the Minho River into Tui, Spain. Don’t forget to change your time to Central Europe timing 1 hour ahead.

Finally reaching Tui your stop for tonight

Today’s journey runs through the spectacular Sierra de Ancares, giving us one of the most spectacular panoramic views of the entire French Way in a completely rural environment.

The route continues ascending until it reaches the Alto de San Roque, where we will see an imposing statue of a pilgrim fighting against the wind. After reaching the Alto do Poio (1.335m), we will descend continuously until our end of the stage, Triacastela – a small village that puts an end to our first fully Galician stage.

There are two routes to choose from and we are opting for the alternative route that goes through the natural land of Las Gandaras.

Not long after walking through Ribadelouro, you will notice a sign on your left for the alternative route. Certainly, this is the more scenic route running along the Louro River a natural and peaceful environment.

Finally arriving in O Porino an industrial town well known for pink granite, the best bread in Galicia, and tasty mushrooms.

You will soon pass through Mos-Rua. Look out for Santa Eulalia church and its 82 m high tower.

After Mos, you have a very steep climb to Capilla de Santiaguiño (230 m ascent). Here you have the first views of Ria de Vigo estuary on the Atlantic Ocean.

From there you will ascend to Redondela where the Portuguese Coastal Camino joins the Central Camino.

Redondela is the start of the spectacular Galician seafood. Some of the tasty offerings are Centollas (spider crabs), mussels, zamburiñas (scallops), turbot, and hake. Certainly, you can’t miss the opportunity to try some of the fresh local delights.

Today is a beautiful day of walking.

As you walk you will notice many more pilgrims who have joined from the coastal way. Several kilometres out of Redondela the path leads up to the Alto de Lomba through the forest after which there is a short section on the busy N-550 to the village of Arcade famous for the best oysters in Galicia.

Cross the long medieval bridge of Ponte Sampaio over the River Verdugo where Napoleon’s army was defeated by the Spanish in 1809 during the War of Independence.

Then walk up through the forest and enjoy one of the most beautiful stretches of the Camino following the ancient narrow stone paths as they climb up the slope.

The path widens amongst fields and vineyards, arriving at Pontevedra with its pretty historic centre, 13th-century church of Santa Maria, and the famous Pilgrim Virgin’s church (Santuario da Peregrina), which although appears round, is actually in the shape of a scallop shell.

We detour to take the “Variante Espiritual” (Spiritual Variant).

The first half of this day follows a stream and then a river, with lovely country paths running alongside.

The first 5km is just breathtaking, following a tree-canopied stream with moss covered stones and continuous waterfalls. It gives an otherworldly and ethereal feel and is some of the loveliest Camino walking I have experienced.

The magnificent Poio Monastery is the first jewel on today’s Camino well worth a visit. The next is the village Combarro, with the old quarter declared “Property of Cultural Interest”. Home to three traditional elements of Galicia “Horreos” (raised granaries), “Casas Marineras” (sea houses), and “Cruces”(crosses). Combarro is considered one of the 10 most beautiful villages in Spain. Owing to its’ fisherman’s cottages with stone or wooden balconies unique in Galicia.

You’ will walk a steep incline up to Mirador de Loureiro (Loureiro viewpoint).

Following this about 6 km further, you arrive at Armenteira, your resting place for today. Visit the Cistercian Monastery of Santa Maria, founded in the 12th century and known in history as an absolute haven of Peace.

The day out of Armenteira is truly spectacular! We will have you walking “Ruta da Pedra e Agua” (Stone and Water Path) along the Armenteira river.

Shortly you will see plenty of old mills (some restored) in between amazing leafy vegetation and vineyards. This is the Rias Baixas wine region, where Albariño wine is made.

Eventually, reach the coastline again with Arousa Island in front of you as you walk with the beach on your left finally crossing the iron bridge to reach Vilanova de Arousa.

Mussels grown in Ria de Arousa are especially good.

The Variante Espiritual from Vilanova de Arousa to Pontecesures is a

special boat ride, for which this Camino gets its name, commemorating the Traslatio de Santiago, or the transfer of the body of St. James from the Holy Land to Padrón, and then onward by land to Santiago de Compostela. This maritime journey is a highlight of the route and replaces a longer walking section.

From De Francos-Milladoira it  is a progressive incline towards your destination. walking mainly along the freeway with quite a few asphalt paths.

A point of interest along the way is the collegiate church of Iria Flavia which was the first cathedral in Galicia, it also has a cemetery worth a wander through.

Make your way via Rua Franco to Praza do Obradoiro and the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

The feeling as you walk through the old streets of Santiago de Compostela, and you catch a glimpse of the towers of the Cathedral, is indescribable.

Try and go to the Pilgrim’s Mass in the cathedral at noon. Before Mass, if you wish to do so, head over to the Pilgrim’s Office to receive your Compostela and attend the 10am English pilgrims mass.

“Don’t cry because it is over, smile because it happened” Dr Seuss