Full Camino Frances – 2027

Arrive at this delightful mountain town at the foothills of the Pyrenees after your journey from Pamplona or Bayonne.

The old town of St Jean Pied de Port winds down the hill with narrow cobbled streets that are a delight to explore. Take in the views from the Citadel which looks across the wooded valleys as you meet pilgrims from all over the world ready to embark on their Camino.

Upon arrival we will head to the church of Notre-Dame-du-Bout-du-Pont at the bottom of the hill on Rue de la Citadelle, to get a pilgrim’s blessing. Here you can also light a candle to pray for a safe journey.

Set off in the predawn darkness through the old streets and under the statue of St James, follow in the footsteps of millions of others who have preceded you over the centuries. The streets are full of pilgrims walking towards the hills, it is a magical feeling as you cross the old bridge and head out of town.

Today will be the first time you follow the famous yellow arrows which mark the 800km journey all the way to Santiago; you will get very practiced at looking out for the markings and for other pilgrims along the route. 

The first section today is steep as you follow country lanes and pass farmland up out of the Valley of St Jean. We head into open country above the tree line, where sheep, cattle and pony’s graze. The inconspicuous border crossing from France to Spain lies within a patch of forest marked by an old stone sign stating the distance to Santiago and a small drinking fountain.

Continue onwards to the highest point at the Col De Lepoeder (1450m) and take some time to enjoy the extensive views over the Pyrenees.

After this, you start your descent through woodlands to the monastery at Roncesvalles which beckons enticingly between the trees on your downhill climb. Arrive at Roncesvalles and enjoy a well-earned drink at the Posada before checking into your accommodation. Roncesvalles or ‘the valley of thorns’ is a beautiful spot still cloaked in a medieval atmosphere.

Make sure you visit the beautiful 12th century church, cloisters and museum before dinner, where you will share tales with fellow pilgrims from every corner of the world, all relieved to have finished today’s section and some would say the hardest day of all the Camino!

After yesterday’s efforts, today’s walk is mostly undulating downhill as you head down through valleys and enjoy delightful woodland walking.

Meander on country paths, following the River Arga and climb two small hills with plenty of shade and drinking fountains en route. It is very pleasant, largely shaded walking and not as strenuous as the day before.  

The shale is challenging today as we have a few descent and this is where your poles are a must. Stopping to soak our feet in the River Arga in Zubiri is a joy.

We leave the peace of the countryside and approach the famous city of Pamplona. You will walk through many bridges over the Arga River along this stage. This river is the most famous in Navarre and its abundant tributaries will guide you up to Pamplona.

There are some beautiful old bridges along today’s route and as we climb a small hill, the city comes into view. The excitement builds as you walk through the outskirts of the city, over the river and through the old city walls.

Once inside the city, you are immediately immersed in the narrow-cobbled streets which burst with colour and life. The Camino passes through famous streets for the running of the bulls.

The route from Pamplona is a mixture of countryside and busy roads, and one of the best views that you are ever likely to have.  Leaving Pamplona the route is well marked out of the city and takes you across some local parks before heading into a small valley.

The first and easiest climb of today brings you to Cizur Menor a small village and suburb of Pamplona. The climb up the Alto del Perdon leaves the Atlantic Basin behind and the scenery changes after the decent to mostly crop fields.  At the top there are various statues of pilgrims from the past.

You will change from the Arga to the Sadar River and the oaks for beach trees and cereal lands. Wind will be with you on your way and is the reason why the first wind farm of the community was installed here.

After crossing the Sierra del Perdón Mountain pass you will get to the same place as the pilgrims that come from the Camino Aragones Way, to Obanos, after this village you will walk with them to Puente la Reina.

Firstly, climbing steeply to 450m after leaving Puente la Reina drops back to 400m then climbs again to 500m this time, and finally drops to about 430m entering Estella. 

This day is much quieter than the last two now that we are away from Pamplona, most of today is along tracks through farmland and sometimes on the special pilgrims’ footpaths that is constructed from compacted earth.

This stage will be a little bit difficult because now the cereal fields will disappear and we are met with undulating hills, colourful olive trees and vineyards. There are a lot of rivers and bridges that hide of secrets and medieval legends. Estella will welcome you with poppy and wheat fields.

Just outside Estella you will find Bodegas Irache, the Wine Museum and its free wine fountain, stop for a rest and sip of the local Rioja!

Most of your walk today will be along nice tracks, among vineyards, olive trees and cereal fields.

From Villamayor de Monjardín to Los Arcos, you will cover approximately 12kms without passing a single village so make sure you have plenty of water and a few snacks.

Most of today and tomorrow’s route is on natural paths and dirt tracks and is very enjoyable walking with some steep sections as you cross a set of hills prior to crossing the river valleys of the Rio Linares and Valdearas.

At Torres del Río you’ll pass another architectural wonder of the Camino, the 12th century, 8-sided Holy Sepulchral Church, associated with the Knights Templar. Further on you reach Viana, a well-preserved historical town whose centre has changed little over the centuries.

After a good fuel up we get started again – our goal is Logroño – the capital of the La Rioja region and home of some of Spain’s most celebrated red wine and pinxtos. Logroño has one of the most distinguished culinary traditions in Spain and there are over 50 taperías  located within a four-block area close to the town centre.

The traditional tapas restaurants often serve only one tapa (such as mushroom), served as pincho (pintxo in Basque) and meaning one serving.

Before you leave Logroño make sure you have a hearty breakfast and carry lunch, snacks and plenty of water in your day pack. The next town Navarrete is 13km away with very few opportunities to stock up between. Soon after leaving Logroño you will come across the restored ruins of the Hospital de Peregrinos, which was founded in 1185 to administer to the Peregrinos (pilgrims) undertaking the Camino.

Shortly after this you arrive in the small town of Navarrete, another town where efforts have been made to preserve the original period homes. The 16th-century Church of the Assumption takes a commanding position at the top square. On the main road on the other side of town, there is another busy square with a number of cafes and restaurants, and you may want to stop here for lunch as it is a further 14km downhill walk into Najera, your final destination for the day.

Historically important, Najera was used by Navarran kings during medieval times after King Garcia Sanchez chose it as his base. The town is built on the banks between the river Najerilla and where you will find the Monasterio and Iglesia de Santa María La Real built in 1032. You enter this town via the modern eastern quarter and the old town sandwiched between the river Najerila and the towering rock face that acts as a spectacular backdrop with its ancient Castillo.

Today we walk along wonderful wide country tracks passing through remote gently rolling farmland. The first 5km is leisurely and brings you to the town of Azofra –  a tiny village with an approximate population of 500 which relies on the Camino for its survival.

In medieval times Azofra was the site of many pilgrim hospitals and a hostel has been here since 1168 when it was founded by Isabel la Católica. From Azofra you pass over the river Rio Tuerto and continue on a pleasant winding track to the village of Ciruena.

From here you start an enjoyable descent into Santo Domingo de la Calzada which owes its inspiration to Saint Dominic of the Road who dedicated his life to improving the physical route for the pilgrims and built a pilgrim’s hospital (now the Parador) and a church which has now evolved into the Cathedral. Both buildings are located in the historic town square Plaza del Santo is where you will find a good variety of places to eat and shop.

Today’s walk towards Belorado is along a road which is quite close to the main N-120 and has little shelter or water. Be careful along this section and make sure you carry full water bottles. You receive some respite from the busy road when you pass through the villages of Grañón, Redecilla del Camino, Castildelgado, and Viloria de Rioja before reaching Villamayor del Rio which is a nice rest spot en route to Belorado.

Belorado has a nice down-to-earth feel about it and is populated by locals who live life at a leisurely pace. There is a medieval arcade lined with shops, bars and restaurants located in the spacious Plaza Mayor. The 16th-century Church of Santa Maria, built alongside limestone cliffs, has a lovely altarpiece with images of Santiago Matamoros y Pellegrino and Santiago Peregrino.

Today’s walk towards Belorado is along a road which is quite close to the main N-120 and has little shelter or water. Be careful along this section and make sure you carry full water bottles. You receive some respite from the busy road when you pass through the villages of Grañón, Redecilla del Camino, Castildelgado, and Viloria de Rioja before reaching Villamayor del Rio which is a nice rest spot en route to Belorado.

Belorado has a nice down-to-earth feel about it and is populated by locals who live life at a leisurely pace. There is a medieval arcade lined with shops, bars and restaurants located in the spacious Plaza Mayor. The 16th-century Church of Santa Maria, built alongside limestone cliffs, has a lovely altarpiece with images of Santiago Matamoros y Pellegrino and Santiago Peregrino.

Villafranca Montes de Oca is our last chance to fill up water or get some food until San Juan 12km away. Once past, you begin the fairly difficult ascent to the highest point of the day at Alto de Pedraja. Passing through beautiful oak woods you reach the peak and gradually descend into San Juan de Ortega.

San Juan, a disciple of Santo Domingo, was known for his work serving pilgrims enroute to Santiago. He built bridges, hospitals, churches and hostels and founded an Augustinian monastery, which is now dedicated to San Nicolas de Barri who is said to have saved San Juan from drowning when returning from the Holy Land.

This day has been cut short to allow you as to spend time in the beautiful city of Burgos – make sure you stop at the cathedral as the 13th-century Catedral de Santa Maria is one of Spain’s largest and most beautiful and combines many different architectural styles but is predominantly Gothic.

We have an early start to ovoid the sun as we are transferred to Hornillos del Camino to begin our meseta adventure.  It’s a lonely trail and one you need to get used to with the only sounds of nature the only likely intrusion on your peace.

There is little shade and water options so be prepared to combat the sun and carry plenty of water.

Castrojeriz is a classic pilgrim town with good facilities.

This midsection of the Camino connects two of the most historic and beautiful cities of the Camino, both with incredible medieval cathedrals and historic city centres. The walking encompasses the Meseta, the elevated and lonely plain that is a joy to seekers of solitude and contemplation but a sore trial to walkers whose eyes crave variety.

From Castrojeriz, with its echoes of a grander past reflected in its castle, 12thc Church, monastery and ruined convent, we start your walk with a steep climb out of Castrojeriz and onto the Meseta, but never fear there is a downhill slope on the other side. Again, today’s walking will see you with little shade on dusty tracks with few water stops, so make sure you take precautions.

About 7km into your walk you come across the small village of Itero de la Vega with a population of only 190. After Itero de la Vega you will pass over the Canal Pisuerga with a gentle incline before descending into Boadilla del Camino.

Boadilla del Camino originally had a population of over 2,000 and once served the multiple pilgrim hospitals. The population is now a mere 200.

We finish today in Fromista, renowned for its stunning 11th-century Iglesia de San Martín. Adorned with over 300 external corbels, each intricately carved with unique human, animal, or mythical designs, it is truly a captivating sight.

13 km from Fromista, we reach Villalcázar de Sirga, celebrated for its warm hospitality. Now recognised as a national monument, this charming town is home to the remarkable Templar church of Santa María la Virgen Blanca, which houses the tombs of both royalty and nobility.

A mere 5km further lies your resting place for the night in Carrion de los Condes. This intriguing town maintains its medieval charm with quiet side streets and was once home to as many as 14 pilgrim hospitals.

You’ll find a delightful selection of shops, bars, and restaurants to choose from, so enjoy exploring!

Today’s route is predominantly flat. Once you leave Carrion, there are few towns along the way, so be sure to enjoy a hearty breakfast and fill your water bottles. You won’t find any facilities for the first 17km until you reach Calzadilla de la Cueza.

If you need to replenish your snacks, you can do so here or wait until Ledigos, which is another 6km ahead. We Depart Carrión de los Condes by crossing the 16th-century bridge and passing the 10th-century Benedictine Monasterio de San Zoilo, which is now a 4-star hotel. Originally built as a convent, it served as the court for the royal family of Castilla Leon.

From this point, the Camino de Santiago remains fairly straight, following an ancient Roman road known as the Via Aquitana, also referred to as the Calzada de los Peregrinos. This historic route connected Burgos and Astorga.

16km we arrive at the village of Calzadilla de la Cueza, where you will likely notice the church tower long before reaching the village itself. This quaint village is quite small, primarily consisting of just one street with just 80 residents and the considered the halfway point of the full Camino.

Today is our last day walking the meseta as when we hit the important village of Shagun, the halfway mark of the Camino where we have time for lunch to explore before our transfer to the wonderful city of Leon.

A beautiful, lively city, combining stunning historical architecture with an irresistible energy. Its standout attraction is the cathedral, one of the most beautiful in Spain, but there’s so much more to see and do here and a great place to rest your weary feet.

Today it takes some time to clear the city limits of Leon so catching a bus to the outskirts of the city to avoid built-up areas and begin our day at the monument of La Virgen Del Camino, marking the end of the city.

When in Virgen Del Camino we take the alternative Camino through Villar de Mazarife and over a flat and manageable stage.

Upon arrival at Hospital De Orbigo we will cross the magnificent stone medieval bridge the town is famous for. It has nineteen arches with the Río Órbigo (river) flowing through only three. A bridge reserved for pedestrians only As a Templar Town it also has a 12th Century Church.

Departing from Hospital de Orbigo, the VIlladangos route is the original Camino de Santiago where you will enjoy this scenic route as it wanders through picturesque countryside – a delightful walk today!

Upon reaching Astorga, a pretty hilltop city perhaps visit its ‘pink’ cathedral, designed by Antoni Gaudí . Constructed in 1471, it also now houses a museum.

Then there is the fabulous Episcopal palace, a sight to behold. Also, the monumental city walls, are a testament to times gone by.

Astorga is well known for its famous chocolates and “Las Mantecadas (cupcakes) de Astorga.

Leaving behind Astorga you will be walking on pleasant paths across plains and with good views of the hills before you. This next section of the Camino de Santiago journeys through to Ponferrada and passes through the area known as La Maragateria and then enters the Bierzo region with its mines and bordering Galicia. The La Maragateria area has very few villages and we recommend you always carry enough food and water for emergencies.

Make sure you carry warm clothing even in the height of summer with you as you will be walking into high mountains. The path runs parallel to the road, after approximately 5km from Astorga you reach Murias de Rechivaldo.

The Camino continues through El Ganso, down a track and runs parallel to the road. Here it passes an old oak tree Known as El Roble del Peregrino where many a pilgrim have rested in the shade of its canopy. As you walk along the path towards Rabanal del Camino (1155m) you pass the remains of the Roman gold mines of La Fucarona.

As you leave Rabanal del Camino you will start to feel the incline which steepens as you head into the hills towards Foncebadon (the infamous deserted village which is no longer deserted). The incline is always walkable and there are plenty of switchbacks with great views back over the plains behind you.

This is one of the most rewarding days but most emotionally challenging as it climbs to ‘Mount Irago’.Stop at the Iron Cross on top of the mountain, one of the most special places on the French Way, where you can place a memento and visit the St James chapel before descending to the lush area of El Bierzo.

“O Lord may the stone which I bring to this holy place be a sign of pilgrimage to Santiago. When I reach my final judgment, tip the balance of my life in favour of my good deeds. I lay down this token which I carry from [starting point]. Please forgive my sins and help me carry my burdens in life. Amen”

Passing over a few more hilly sections you will reach your highest point at Collado de las Antenas (1515m), from here it is a steep downhill to Molinaseca (610m).

This stage is 32km and we can reduce it to 26km by catching a bus to the city of Ponferrada which can be clearly seen in the distance.

Once in the city of Ponferrada, continue past the castle of the Knights Templar, make sure you enjoy a quick coffee in the plaza to admire the hills you’ve just climbed.

After Ponferrada, the walk continues through gently rolling hills and vineyards before reaching the charming town of Villafranca del Bierzo which is nestled in the hills that mark the border into Galicia.

We have a pleasant walking day in front of us today with gentle paths in the countryside. We soon enter the Valcarce riverside forest, with superb chestnut trees, then onto Trabadelo, a good place to stop for a drink and rest.

You may hear a change in the language with locals speaking Galician, the language of Galicia and bordering regions.

We head towards the village of Pereje. Walk down the Calle Camino de Santiago until we reach the village of Herrerias.

The Camino from this point onwards climbs through the mountains starting gently but progressively getting steeper until you reach the atmospheric hilltop hamlet of O Cebreiro.

O Cebreiro is as special as it is small. Nestled, at 1,300 metres of altitude, between the mountain ranges of O Courel and Os Ancares, the village is home to traditional mountain dwellings of pre-Roman origin, called ‘pallozas’. These unique homes can only be found in this region of Galicia along with  ‘Queixo do Cebreiro’  the local soft creamy cheese, made using traditional artisan techniques, without artificial additives.

Along with a well-deserved afternoon to rest we get time to savour this beautiful hilltop setting.

Today’s journey runs through the spectacular Sierra de Ancares, giving us one of the most spectacular panoramic views of the entire French Way in a completely rural environment.

The route continues ascending until it reaches the Alto de San Roque, where we will see an imposing statue of a pilgrim fighting against the wind. After reaching the Alto do Poio ( 1.335 m), we will descend continuously until our end of the stage, Triacastela – a small village that puts an end to our first fully Galician stage.

In this stage we will be walking along the Oribio valley, one of the most impressive landscapes of the French route, surrounded by the river and lush forests of chestnuts, poplars and oak trees.

Another half day walking, we end at the benedictine monastery of Samos, the oldest inhabited monastery in Spain, with its impressive cloisters and murals. It’s at a high-altitude level walk but no real steep climbs so is a relatively manageable and enjoyable walk for most pilgrims.  You will pass through charming villages, forests and the busy suburb of Sarria with buses loading Pilgrims off on route to Santiago.

A beautiful place to relax and enjoy some solitude before we hit the craziness of the last 100km from Sarria.

Let’s enjoy a little rest this morning before we begin the lovely descent through ancient forests with mystical features and passing through charming villages, forests and the busy suburb of Sarria with buses loading Pilgrims off on route to Santiago.

We will aim to get into Sarria by 2.00pm to give you time to rest, do laundry and relax before the craziness of the last 100km.

The majority of this walk is on sheltered woodland pathways or quiet country roads and passes through many hamlets and small villages. The scenery along the way is wonderfully green and lush and very rural. The trail climbs and falls repeatedly as it passes tiny hamlets full of history.

In the final section is the high point of the day (660m) Pat Pina dos Corvos which has wonderful views over the reservoir and surrounding countryside.

The Portomarín in which you will stay tonight is not the Portomarín that pilgrims in the Middle Ages knew; the old village lies below the waters of the reservoir in the valley below the present-day village, built in 1960.The impressive fortified church of St. Nicholas, built by the monk-knights of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem in the 12th century, was disassembled stone by stone and moved up the hill to its present location, together with the balcony of the village’s town hall and the Romanesque façade of the Church of St. Peter. Shortly before reaching Portomarín today you will pass the final 100-kilometre mark on the Camino.

Today’s walk is uphill for 15km however the gradient is never too steep, and you gradually climb to a height of 720m at Sierra Ligonde.

The walk is now downhill to Ligonde and Eirexe and onto A Calzada. There is a detour here of 4km to the National Monument, Vilar de Donas where the Knights of Santiago are buried and is worthy of a visit if we have time.

A gentle climb now takes you through several small hamlets to Alto Rosario and there are good vantage points on a clear day and then down into Palas de Rei.

A big walking day, it is mostly on paths through quiet woodland, crossing over the main road to Arzua several times and guiding you through six river valleys to reach a high point of 515m at Coto. On route you will pass Melide, famous for Pulpo Gallego, octopus cooked Galician style and reputed to be the best in Spain.

Much of the path after Melide winds through woodlands of oak, pine and eucalypt, passing over several valleys though Boente, Castañeda and then Ribadiso from where you can see the Hospital San Anton, one of the oldest pilgrim hospitals in existence.

From Ribadiso follow the country road on a steep uphill climb and through the outer suburbs before entering Arzua. With a population of around 7000 is the last large town before you reach Santiago.

The majority of today’s walk is through wonderful pine and eucalyptus scented woodland – it smells like home!

 The path is mostly level, passing through three shallow river valleys with a gradual climb up to Alto de Santa Irene at 404m.

The final section climbs steeply to a main road, into eucalyptus woodland. O Pedrouzo is a small but busy town with plenty of shops, restaurants and bars and the staging point for the last section of the Camino before entering Santiago de Compostela. 

Today’s route will be a busy as pilgrims begin the last stage of their walk into Santiago. Lavacolla village is where pilgrims traditionally washed to purify themselves before entering Santiago and Lavacolla literally means to wash your tail.

At Monte Gozo, Mount of Joy, you will first sight the stunning Catedral de Santiago spires. This is where you can leave another pilgrims stone if you wish.

The walk into Santiago is emotional as you come to terms that you have walked over 700km from France to Spain – you are amazing !!

Before you depart try and go to the Pilgrim’s Mass in the cathedral at noon. Before Mass, if you wish to do so, head over to the Pilgrim’s Office to receive your Compostela. (please note there is no accommodation tonight)

“Don’t cry because it is over, smile because it happened” – Dr Seuss